KOMARNA Sightseeing
Mostar old bridge
Sightseeing
information for Mostar and the surroundings
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Mostar is a great historic city. Visit the
tourist office for information.
There is a big market every Saturday where you are sure to find a
bargain.
Please look under "Cities in the Area" for more information.
The city was badly damaged during the civil war 11 years ago. The
historic
bridge over Neretva has been rebuild and opened in 2004, but there is
still
much evidence of the fighting and enough left to remind you of how
beautiful
it was before the destruction.
Mostar is the former oriental trading centre of Hercegovina. You may have heard much about this city, which was split during the conflict in the early 1990s. You may see the scars of war, but these days, Mostar is again a bustling place, with a fascinating history and a wonderful architecture.
The city is only about 75 km. away and the road through Metkovic towards Sarajevo. It is an easy drive. Much easier than the winding coastal road. The city used to be a real pearl of multi-ethnic architecture and culture. During the civil war it was destroyed in the senseless hatred that broke out between groups of the local population and it is still very much marked by the battles that were fought across the Neretva River where the left bank is now Bosnian Muslim and the Right Bank is Croatian Catholic.
Funds have been allocated to the city by many agencies, and during our last visit (October 2005) we were pleasantly surprised to find that restoration work is now in good progress. There are still many houses that are destroyed or severely marked by the fighting, but the centre around the old bridge (Stari Most) is now very busy with cafés and souvenir shops and a lot of tourists - even off season in October.
The old bridge over Neretva River is the symbol
of the city. It dates back
to the time of the Turkish occupation in the 1400's. The war destroyed
it and the nearby buildings in the old town. One of the encouraging
things
that have happened is, that the bridge is now rebuild and opened on
July
23. 2004. It is again a very attractive sight and something to remember.
The whole area around the bridge used to be interesting and beautiful and seems to be coming back to its former shape so that future generations will be able to enjoy the multi-cultural atmosphere and tranquillity that used to be here. It is easy to imagine what it used to be when you sit down at one of the many small restaurants that operate close to the bridge.
The city needs tourist. Visitors are very welcome and maybe the best (and only) thing we can do is to show up, spend some money, and pray that everything will one day be as it used to be.
If you want to go Mostar, take the road from Metkovic towards Sarajevo. When you get close to Mostar, look out for the airport (on the right) and follow the road to the left towards the centre a few kilometres after the airport. Look out for signs pointing to the right towards "Stari Grad" (old city) or "Stari Most" (old bridge). You will be rewarded with impressions that - for good and bad - will stay with you forever.
Sights on the road to Mostar
Remember your passport and insurance papers for the car.
Pocitelj
14 km from Metkovic. Turkish settlement with
many buildings left including
Mosque, Medrasa and a Turkish Bath.
High up over the river is a fortress build by King Tvrtko In 1383. It played a strategic role by controlling the Neretva Valley. The town was severely damaged during the civil war, but restoration work is progressing and the mosque and some old houses have been nicely restored. The village is a good place to rest and have a cup of coffee in one of the cafes on the central square.
If you want to go to the fortress you have to ignore the natural urge to turn left and walk towards it. There is a path (probably several. But one we know of). You find it by walking slightly to your right from the towns parkinglot towards the “back” of the village.with a bit of agility you can climb the stairs in the tower and take in the surroundings through the arching holes.
Orthodox Monastery.
Half way between Pocitelj and Buna there is a newly renovated monastery. The signs are only visible when coming from Mostar, but it is easy to spot on the right side of the road and about 100 meter up a small road.
The monastery and church is a representative of the third ethnic group that used to be in this area, but which was more or less forced in exile during the war in 1992.
Blagaj and Buna River
Blagaj's highlights are the Buna Spring and the
adjacent Ottoman house
and monastery called the Dervish House. The Dervish are an ascetic sect
in islam best known for going into trance by dancing spinning round and
round. There are still Dervish people practicing in Bosnia Herzegovina,
as well as in Turkey and The Middle East.
The spring is amazing. It flows out of the bottom of a 200m high cliff wall and creates the Buna River. The Ottoman sultan was impressed, and ordered a tekija to be built right next to it. This 16th century house/monastery was built for the Dervish cults and is still one of the most mystical places in all of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Blagaj's old town is worth taking a walk through. This lazy Herzegovina town moves at a slow pace and many of its old structures are reminiscent of Ottoman days.
A newly built heritage trail around the town is a rather pleasant 30-45 minute walk around the town starting at the Tekija Dervish House and visiting the Velagic house built in 17th century a beautiful example of Ottoman stone masonry. In the vicinity are also old flour mills that the strong Buna powered. On the way to Blagaj try to visit a wonderful hidden restaurant that you may find if you follow the driving instructions and not the road signs.
Driving Directions:
- Drive towards Mostar. One of the last villages before you reach Mostar and the airport is Buna (same name as the river). Turn right in Buna just after you have passed the river. Turn left first time and then keep to the right following a narrow winding road.
- One kilometre down the road there is a restaurant in lovely settings - perfect for a rest and with very reasonable prices.
- Continue on the road after the restaurant until you reach a T-junction.
- Turn left and next T-junction is in Buna where you turn right and follow the road through Blagaj.
- Keep to the right along the river until you reach a parking space just before the Dervish House.
- There is a parking fee of 4 Kuna per hour.
Gabela and Mogorjelo
A trip across the border in Metkovic can take
you to several interesting
places just inside Hercegovina. The closest places are two old
fortifications
that you may read more about in the document "Historic Excursions".
Gabela, Four km from Metkovic, was the gate to Neretva after the fall of Narona in the 600th's. We highly recommend the place if you like fortifications.
Mogorjelo, Roman Villa Rustica (large industrial-like farm) from the 200th's. At 102x 86 meters its a fairly large ruin. The Villa had close links to Narona to whom it was the major supplier of produce. The site was excavated more than a hundred years ago and is now a beautiful park lined with shady trees that were planted back then. There is a good playground for children and a place to rent horses.
Driving directions, remember your passports:
- From Metkovic drive towards Mostar and Sarajevo (road 9).
- About 4 km after the border station turn left in Visici.
- After 1 km you pass a bridge over Neretva. Continue 700 meter where there is a crossing.
- For Gabela, turn left and go uphill. For Morgojelo, follow the road to the right for about 4 km through Struge and you see the ruins on your right hand with a parking place in front.
- Gabela is challenging and just follow this instruction. The ruins are so little known that many of the locals do not know where they are.
- When you turn left in the crossing, go uphill through two sharp turns.
- After about 600 meter turn left into a very narrow road where you are beginning to doubt that it can be right - just continue for 300 meter.
- When you see a church on your left you know that you are on the right course.
- After the 300 meters you arrive at an open place where you can park.
- The entrance to the ruins is on you right.
Now imagine that this could be ancient Troy. Many believe it is and the surrounding landscape does fit the description in the Illiad
There is more information about Gabela and Mogorjelo in Historic Excursions